Squaw's Tit -- Jun 26, 2008

Elevation Gain: 1150 meters (3772 feet)

Climbed by: me solo.

I parked at the eastern-most end of Bow River Drive (I think), where there is a sort of cul-de-sac. I had read that people tend to get tickets if they park in the residential areas, so I though this would be a good location (it must have been -- no ticket upon my return to the car!). I took a compass bearing on the "nipple", and crashed through the forest toward it. There are no trails that go in the direction you want to go, so you need to take that compass bearing.

There are two drainages, and as I recall you want to stay in between them. Parking where I did, I was already in between them, so I just had to make sure I didn't cross either of them. It wasn't hard. When I did finally intercept the drainage on climber's right, it was a huge, washed-out thing that one couldn't miss.

I followed this drainage for a bit, then decided it would be smart to get back closer to the middle. Before long, I started going up in a serious kind of way. Having been warned about staying away from the trails, I tended to bash my way straight up the incline, but did find a few trails that appeared to go my way, and then they'd peter out.

Once above the tree line, I stayed very close to the left hand ridge. On it, most of the time. It is very slabby, and the climb brings you eventually to the "nipple" at the top. Looking at this protuberance, you might think there is no way up it -- no sane way, anyway. Aha! You'll see a steep ramp on the left flank of the nipple. Ascend it on this ramp, and around to the back. Once there, you can pick any of several weaknesses to ascent, or walk all the way over to the other side and climb up the fairly obvious ramp.

Once on top, there isn't a lot of room. Luckily, the crowds don't seem to be drawn to this mountain, so you don't need a lot of room. Head back down via the upper ramp if you don't want to downclimb one of the weaknesses, back down the main ramp, and then down the slab into the trees. Take the reverse compass bearing from the peak, and follow it down. Sooner or later, you'll end up either back at your vehicle, or at the highway.